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Hôtel du Nord Nearly Delivers a Lovely Bistro Experience in a Storied Setting
Cities like Paris and New York, known as much for their Vibes as for their cuisine, are unfortunately rife with spots that sacrifice quality in favor of ambiance. I always think of this as a bit of a...
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If You’re Going to Eat on Place du Tertre, Do it at Chez Eugène
Paris is a city that greatly resembles itself, no matter which neighborhood you find yourself in. This is the case in large part because of a major renovation project that took place in the 19th...
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All Aboard Le Train Bleu for an Old-School French Dining Experience
My mother likes to visit Paris twice a year. (Why wouldn’t you, when your daughter lives here?) But despite looking forward to these visits every year, they also force me to wrack my brains for places...
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Hôtel du Nord Nearly Delivers a Lovely Bistro Experience in a Storied Setting
Cities like Paris and New York, known as much for their Vibes as for their cuisine, are unfortunately rife with spots that sacrifice quality in favor of ambiance. I always think of this as a bit of a...
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NHOMe’s Boundary-Pushing Cuisine Nevertheless Remains Rooted in Comfort
Disclosure: I was a guest of the property for this meal. In my line of work, I spend quite a bit of time thinking about the Venn diagram of the intellectually daring, challenging, daring cuisine that...
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Bofinger is a Brasserie Gem Out of Time
Living in Paris for the past 17 years has changed me in a number of ways. I don’t smile at strangers in the street; I don’t eat while walking or outside of socially acceptable meal times. I say bonjour...
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La Coupole is a Vibe… And a Step Out of Time
When it comes to Paris’ big-name brasseries, La Coupole is often at the top of the list. Dating back to 1927, this Montparnasse mainstay was long a favorite gathering place for Lost Generation writers...
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Le Café du Commerce Continues in a Long Parisian Tradition
Along a vibrant shopping street at the edge of the 15th arrondissement, le Café du Commerce shows that Parisian tradition is alive and well, as flirtatious, black-vested waiters serve classics of...
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FIEF’s Mission is Clear, but There’s Some Fumbling on the Execution
The French love themselves a play on words. A fief is exactly what it sounds like, but in the case of Michelin-starred FIEF, it’s also an acronym: Fait Ici en France, Made Here in France. Stalwartly...
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Cloche Is a Place to See, Be Seen, and Eat Good Beef
Central Paris’ Les Halles neighborhood gets its name from the massive city-within-a-city of markets that once stood here. Dating back as far as the Middle Ages, the market district truly hit its stride...
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Le Petit Pharamond May Be My Favorite Parisian Bouillon – with a Few Major...
Paris’ obsession with la street food had hit a fever pitch by the time I wrote an article on the trend for Saveur. While opinions proved varied, one thing nearly every expert I interviewed agreed on is...
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Cornichon is Even Better Than I Expected
It seems that every few months, a new 11th arrondissement restaurant becomes the hipster foodie darling: after Café du Coin, it was le Goncourt, and of late, le Cornichon has held that title. A...
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For Excellent Roast Chicken, Head to Brasserie Bellanger
I’ve had admittedly mixed experiences with the new wave of neo-bouillons and brasseries. Bouillon Pigalle was the first to conquer my heart and stomach with its criminally cheap egg-mayo, wonderfully...
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Bar Fleuri’s Plat du Jour is Worth Being Scolded Over
It’s rare that I come across the sort of café I once assumed I’d find on every street corner in Paris, with down-home comfort food served by a married couple exuding equal parts chic, charm, and scorn....
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Brasserie Lipp is a Storied Parisian Institution Worth a Stop
You could throw a rock in Paris and hit a “storied institution,” but there’s perhaps nowhere in the city where they’re so concentrated as in the Latin Quarter. Here, in the former stomping grounds of...
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Jessica Préalpato’s French-Style High Tea is Mindblowingly Good
Disclosure: I was a guest of the property for this meal. Before everyone who actually knows me freaks out… no, I did not eat the buckwheat in the photo above. But I was astounded by literally...
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Dandelion is a Creative, Modern Restaurant Pushing the Boundaries of...
In recent years, a sameyness has been burgeoning on the restaurant scene in cities like New York or Paris or London. In rooms defined by a similar adherence to raw wood and stone, menus crow about...
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JojoandCo Lends a Sweet Dose of Modernity to the Marais
When it comes to dessert, the French are fans of outsourcing. And that’s no surprise, given what’s on offer at even the most bog standard of French boulangeries. Walk through the door, and you’re...
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If You Want to Know How Raclette Got its Name, Turn to le Chalet Savoyard
I wrote years ago about Monbleu, the fromagerie-cum-restaurant where you can dig into a host of cheese-driven dishes including raclette. But my first brush with this après-ski delicacy was in Savoie,...
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Chantefable is a Fun Vibe but Far from Deserving of All the Accolades
When I’m disappointed by a restaurant that has gotten accolades from palates I trust, I get major Emperor’s New Clothes vibes. Did I order wrong? Was it an off night? Has my palate been destroyed by...
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